Fashion Frontier

Lauren Shu

What has passed for ‘fashionable’ in Shanghai has included some real faux pas; socks with sandals, the worst of American trends and patterns that should be seen only on curtains to name just a few. But in recent years, there’s been a rapid transformation and it’s increasingly common to see glamorously clad Shanghai stylistas strutting down the street.

Shanghai-based fashion designer Qi Gang, for one, is happy to see the transition. He is one of todays’ most talked about Chinese fashion designers, and is making a name for himself on the international scene. Qi was thrust into the spotlight after being a judge on Tyra Banks’ America’s Next Top Model in cycle nine, and hosting the finale’s fashion show. As an icon of Shanghai style, Qi is happy to see that his pet peeve of people unceremoniously throwing on common clothes is a dwindling occurrence.

When we met with Qi, the petite designer was easy to spot from a distance. Dressed in a purple vest, a black T-shirt, bright-pink socks (one of his favourite accessories) and sunglasses that remained on for the entirety of the interview, the designer greeted us with his luggage in tow before he was to rush off to a meeting with a CCTV producer, before heading to the airport.

Qi Gang became interested in costumes as a young grade-two student in Zhejiang province. After studying at the Scientific and Technological Institutes of Zhejiang, he began to work in commercial design, but in recent years he has made the leap into the world of high fashion. Nowadays many of his designs are still reminiscent of costumes – elaborate get-ups, flowing sleeves and a mash-up of traditional and modern elements.

“When I first began, I chose to design for Layefe, founded by Yifei Chen, because it was the most fashionable brand in China at that time. I had a very high starting point,” Qi says. Since then, he’s built on that platform, going on to win some of China ’s major fashion awards and, two years ago, creating his own line, SEC (Sculpture Element Collection).

Qi recalls his rise to the top. “When I was quite young, I asked my uncle to bring me French fashion magazines. He gave me a copy of Elle, and that was extremely rare at that time. At that moment, it was burnt into my soul – I had to pursue fashion design,” he says. It wasn’t without a hitch, though. His parents were worried and disagreed with his choice at the beginning, but his older, style-wise sister lent her support until his fashion accolades and success were able to speak for themselves.

Qi’s unwavering confidence is in part responsible for his achievements. “I have talent, interesting designs and I’m hardworking,” he explains. “I love fashion, so I always work hard. I’m ready for any challenge, and that brings good opportunities. These factors led to my success.”

Though he designs primarily for women, Qi says his work is more about the beauty of the clothes themselves, rather than the look of the person wearing them.  Although, that doesn’t stop him from collecting a variety of incredibly beautiful women as fans – celebrities who frequently flaunt his couture include pop singers, such as Sun Nan and Han Hong, and actresses Zhou Xun and Vicky Zhao.

On the catwalk, Qi’s fashion shows are somewhat akin to theatrical performances: dancers on stilts, severe red lipstick, rigid hair and costumes that are out of this world – at once delicate and intense with body-hugging shapes, draping sleeves, sheer material, and color palettes of blue, gray and black. 

His next big show is China Fashion Week in November, where he will display his 2010 spring and summer collection, but he’s keeping tight-lipped on this one. “I’ve begun to collect ideas, information, try out new designs and materials, but I can’t tell you more details now – it’s a surprise!” he teases.

There is one thing we do know about his show – Qi Gang won’t be backstage with the models; he’ll be sitting upfront with the director and observing. “I’m never nervous. I know that’s very strange. Usually people think designers are the busiest during shows, but I’m idle. I’m confident, and I know all the details like the back of my hand. My team has worked with me for many years,” he explains.

With a life of jet setting to fashion capitals of the world, Qi raves about the couture on the streets of Paris and Milan , two cities he appreciates for their fashion history and attention to style. “Western clothes demonstrate the body more, and the design is bolder. But China ’s old culture has roots in elegant ink and wash painting and dynasties,” says Qi Gang. “I think that when a Chinese designer moves towards internationalisation, that is key.”