See You in Cebu

Abby O'Meara

The drive from Cebu's Mactan International Airport to its idyllic coast offers glimpses of a small town in Asia's tropics – narrow, winding roads weaving between brightly coloured homes and businesses, plied by converted 'Jeepneys' packed with passengers – but with world-class beaches, renowned local food and some of the Philippines' most treasured cultural heritage sites, Cebu is anything but a small town.

Locally, Cebu is most famous as the first place touched by Catholicism in what is now one of the largest and fastest growing Catholic populations in the world. With an 80 per cent Catholic majority, the Philippines is home to more baptised Catholics than Italy and twice as many as Spain .

Ferdinand Magellan landed in Cebu in 1521 and, after planting a cross with the help of early converts – local chieftain Rajah Humabon, his wife and 400 of their loyal followers – used the city as a base for exploration into Asia.

A small open-air shrine in the city centre houses the remnants of Magellan's cross, now encased in a wooden shell to prevent the devout from snatching a souvenir. Next to the shrine is the Santo Nino Church and Convent, the first church established in the Philippines in 1565 and still in use for daily services. During the 'holy week' from Ash Wednesday to Easter Sunday, the cathedral draws crowds that spill out its doors and onto the plaza outside and is the endpoint of a massive procession involving hundreds of people and dozens of floats honouring saints.

And while locals revere Magellan for having introduced Catholicism, they also remember his killer – a local chieftain called Lapu Lapu – as a hero who led the resistance against Spanish forces and, contrary to what we learned in school, ended Magellan's conquest before he got to complete his circumnavigation of the globe. (His crew went on without him to claim that feat.) Lapu Lapu is memorialised in a statue on Mactan Island, where the revolt took place.

Today Mactan's natural beauty and the care with which it has been preserved make it a destination for a more refined breed of explorer – the island is home to Cebu's airport and a cluster of top-notch resorts along the southeast coast that cater to leisure travellers looking for a bit of sand and sun off the beaten path.

Mactan's sheltered position inside the Philippine archipelago means fewer storms and clearer water than at the exposed outer islands, and that means great diving. All you need is a mask and snorkel to see clownfish nestled in anemones, giant clams on the ocean floor and spiky lionfish peeking out from between rocks – the variety of marine life just metres offshore is astounding. If you want to go even deeper, though, suit up and get yourself onto one of the many diving expeditions offered along the coast. Mactan is one of the only places in the world to spot whale sharks, the friendly giants of divers' dreams, as well as hammerhead and reef sharks, tuna and barracuda.

Wildlife enthusiasts of the avian persuasion are in luck, too – a small island just beyond Mactan is home to the 920ha Olango Wildlife Sanctuary, one of the world's top flyovers for migratory birds. Of the island's 100 species, almost half are travellers on their way from their breeding grounds in Siberia, northern China and Japan down south to Australia and New Zealand (July to November) and back again (February to May). The island group's tidal mudflats are teeming with tasty critters to energise the birds for the final leg of their journey.

Uniquely human pursuits like banana boating, jet skiing and parasailing are also on offer, and while there's plenty going on to keep an adventurous traveller (or a restless kid) busy for several days, there's also something to be said for just sitting on the beach, cool drink in hand, and watching the world go by. There is enough space here that your neighbour's love of speedy motors doesn't have to interfere with your love of mojito-enriched sunbathing.

Nothing stirs up an appetite like a day at the beach, and luckily Cebu's cuisine is another highlight. Don't leave without trying the lechon, a local specialty – a whole pig slowly roasted over charcoal until the skin becomes crispy. Naturally, fresh seafood dishes also abound, with grouper, talapia and prawns playing starring roles – some simply steamed, others steeped in rich spices or served up in a cold, spicy salad. Meanwhile street stalls in Cebu city dish up stir-fried meat and vegetables, crispy fried chicken and fish over rice to patrons seated on long benches – cheap, delicious and a dose of local flavour to boot.

A short flight, a total change of scenery, language and culture, historic charm and stunning beaches. Are you still reading?

Getting There

Cebu Pacific flies direct from Shanghai to Cebu's Mactan International Airport via Manila. The trip takes about four hours and costs RMB 2,600, including taxes and fees at the time of printing.

Getting Tanked

First time diver? Here's what you need to know before taking to the sea.

Do I need certification to go diving?

Yes.

How long does a course take?

Some mini-courses will have you on your first dive in a matter of hours. If you're planning more than a chaperoned afternoon dip, though, go for the full course – it still takes just three to four days.

How much does it cost?

Depending on the course you choose, you can expect to pay PHP 10,000 to 20,000 (RMB 1,400-2,800) including instruction and equipment use.

Where can I get certified?

Like any tourist destination with an ocean floor to show off, Cebu is teeming with diving courses. The major resorts are a good bet, reliable and reasonably priced.

Can I use my certification somewhere else on my next trip?

Yes. Major international schools like PADI and SSI are recognised all over the world, so you can dive and apply for advanced courses in other countries and with other companies.

What to Bring

Prepare for serious heat and sun – that means sunblock, light clothes that cover your shoulders, and sunglasses or a hat. In the city, comfortable walking shoes are a must; at the shore, a light, quick-drying layer makes trips from the beach to the bar a cinch.